Marine air conditioning systems operate similar to a typical heat pump with one exception: the heat exchange is by water rather than air. Refrigerant is pumped by a compressor through coils where the heat blown across the coils by a fan is removed from the air, resulting in cold air pumped into your boat. Water passing the coils removes the heat from the refrigerant and is discharged overboard. The number 1 cause of marine air conditioning problems is water flow, probably 98% of the time. Here's what you need to know to resolve most marine air issues.
- Make a point of knowing the proper water flow from your air conditioning outfalls so you can detect any problems before they shut you down when you least expect it.
- Always assume the problem is water flow unless you know for a fact that the water flow is adequate. If you find ice on the coils, you have a refrigerant leak, call a technician.
- Feel the water from the outfall. It should be slightly warm. Hot water signals some blockage somewhere in the system.
- Check the intake thru hull first and clear blockage by using high pressure water.
- Next, be sure the strainers are clean. I check mine every 4 weeks based upon past experience. You may find you need to check yours more often or less depending on the water quality your boat is in.
- Lastly, flush the entire system by using the dock water hose opened all the way, inserted into the hose that you detached from the intake thru hull. keep the system turned off when you do this. Have someone watch the water flow on the side of the boat and tell you when it runs clear. This may seem unnecessary but what happens is that sediment settles in the lines over time, preventing proper heat transfer. Flushing will dramatically improve the performance.
- Lastly, drop about two Bromine tablets into the strainer basket before sealing everything up. If used in sea water, barnacles and other clinging critters can not survive in this water.
